41 members attended. New
members: Craig Aldrich, Greg Chapman, Paul Grimm, Benjamin Helmuth,
Stephanie Lane, Vicki Mildenstein, Jim Peterson
President Dave
Irvin reports we have $16.43 left in our checking account. All
outstanding bills for the year have been paid. We still must buy stamps
for future mailings.
Our booth at the
Johnson County 4-H Fair got fewer visitors this year, and Dave Irvin wants
suggestions for improvements. Some ideas: posters/handouts about Colony
Collapse Disorder, IHPA (Iowa Honey Producers Association) logo “tatoos” for
the kids, display more beekeeping equipment of different kinds.
Other ideas?
At least 6
ECIBA members exhibited their apiary products at the Iowa State Fair, and many
won ribbons. State Beekeeper Andy Joseph is adding up entries from each
of the 10 beekeeping clubs around the state to see which club won the IHPA
“most entries” prize.
Floyd Otdoerfer
gave a demo on his method for rendering beeswax. He puts cappings in a
mesh bag and immerses it in a large (~8 gal?) pot of very hot water, but not
boiling. He weights down the bag so it doesn’t float and bobs it many
times so that the wax comes out into the water but dirt stays behind in the
bag. After the water cools, there is a crust of rendered wax floating on
top. He re-melts the rendered wax and runs it through a sieve holding a
cloth filter to further clean it. He pours the cleaned wax into cupcake
tray molds. Discussion: bigger blocks than that (3# blocks for
State Fair) must be cooled slowly, to avoid cracks.
Bob Wolff
demonstrated how he makes dipped candles. His candles usually place
highly at the Iowa State Fair, but making good ones takes technique. It
is important to have the right gauge of wicks; Bob uses un-weighted flat
braided cotton wick from Pourette Candle supplies in Oregon. Bob has
designed a collapsible jig on which to stretch the wicks. Each side of
the jig holds wick for 2 doubles and 1 single—10 candles per jig. The
jigs are adjustable to either make 10” or 12” candles. Bob uses 10 such
jigs so as to make 100 candles per run, and can do two such runs in an 8:00 a.m.-to-6:00
p.m. day. He keeps 2 large (6-8 gal?) double-boiler pots of melted wax
heated by propane to ~160oF; he never lets the water boil. One
pot is the dip pot, the other is to replenish wax in the dip pot. He keeps the
dip pot rim full and immerses the jigs to the exact same depth (via stops) for
each dip. First dip takes ~1 ½ min so as to release air bubbles in the
wick. Subsequent dips last 35-40 sec. The wax must cool enough
between dips; doing all 10 jigs in order lets each one cool about right.
Tricks to stay organized—number the jigs, hang them to cool in a clear order,
and use some method (e.g., pennies dropped in a cup) to keep count. It takes
26-29 dips to make a candle thick enough to exactly fit a standard candle
holder. At about dip 14, Bob releases the candles from the jigs; after
that he dips the candles separately, trimming the bottoms to keep them
square. His pure beeswax candles are practically smokeless, and burn
about an inch an hour. They sell for $6-$8 for singles and $10 for doubles.
Bob also
demonstrated how to make thick shorter candles by rolling pure wax foundation
onto a big square wick. It takes 6 sheets of foundation per candle.
He fuses the sheets end to end using a bead of melted wax he applies with a
Q-tip of cotton on a wire.
Honey Fest at
Indian Creek Nature Center 319-362-0664 is this coming Sunday, September 16,
1:00 to 4:00 p.m. Larry Spina is on tap to wear a bee beard.
Volunteers are invited to be on hand and explain about beekeeping to attendees.
Recently several
folks have contacted me asking how to get rid of swarms they have found in
buildings or trees. (They got my name via the ECIBA web site that Jim
Davis maintains, http://eastcentraliowabeekeepers.blogspot.com,
so we know our website is getting hits!) Here is what I tell them: If the
bees aren’t bothering anything, leave them till spring. They might freeze
out over winter. If they are still there come spring, contact a local
beekeeper, who may be willing to come get them for free. A swarm in
spring is desirable, because it will make honey all summer. Relocating a
swarm in fall is a waste of effort, because the bees won’t have time to make
enough honey to overwinter, so will die anyway. Find a local beekeeper by
checking with your county agent, or by looking in the State Apiary Register to
be found via the Iowa Sensitive Crops Directory, https://www.idalsdata.org/sensitivecrop/NoMenu/PesticideApplicatorsReportMenu.cfm?IsAdmin=0.
If the bees are in a building, you may need to call in a carpenter/beekeeper
like Dave Irvin 319-331-6590, and pay for the carpentry involved. To kill
the bees yourself, get a veil and gloves, seal yourself against stings, and rip
off the siding to expose the bees. Expect some stings anyway, so don’t
try this if you are allergic. Do not use insecticide; spray them down
with water and stamp them dead. It will take a while, but you may get
some honey out of it. Question: IS THIS ADVICE OKAY? What did I say
wrong, and what more or else should I have said?
Dave Campbell, ECIBA Secretary
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